Whisky Review: Springbank 15 Year Old

The world of single malt scotch can be somewhat over whelming.  With hundreds of single malts varying in style, age, and most importantly, price, it’s not easy to lay down your hard earned cash on just any whisky.  In the province of British Columbia, where tax rates on liquor run in excess of 111% one must be particularly careful when deciding to purchase a pricy single malt.  Luckily, there is one distillery in Scotland making that decision a little easier.

An Overview of Springbank

On the southwestern tip of Scotland, nestled on the edge of Campbeltown, is the Springbank Distillery.  Founded in 1828, Springbank Distillery produces three very distinctively different styles of single malt: Hazelburn, a triple distilled, unpeated, single malt; Longrow, a heavily peated single malt; and the signature of the distillery, Springbank.  Springbank, the lightly peated single malt, best reflects the style of the once thriving Campbeltown whisky scene: Briny, sweet, with a hint of smoke.

Of the three distilleries left on the south-west peninsula of Scotland, the Springbank Distillery is know for being the only distillery in the whole of Scotland to execute every asset of production on premises.  Malting, kilning, mashing, fermenting, distilling, aging, and bottling, all done within the walls of this family owned distillery.  In addition to carrying out all methods of production on site, a characteristic unique to Springbank that is not commonly practiced in the world of single malt whisky is their approach to leaving their whisky unchill-filtered and abstaining from adding any E150 caramel coloring. 

With such attention to detail put into every bottle of whisky one must ask them self, “is it all worth it?”  Does taking the time to do everything by hand result in a final product superior to other Scottish whiskies?

  

  

Criteria of Single Malt Whisky

When assessing a single malt whisky, there are four aspects one must look to assess: aroma, taste, finish, and lastly, over all balance and complexity.   To ensure that all four of these aspects of the whisky are displayed to their full potential, the whisky is tasted in an ISO tasting glass.  In addition, no ice or water will be added to the whisky.  This will ensure the whisky is left unadulterated.

Assessing Springbank

At the zenith of Springbank’s core line-up of whiskies is the Springbank 15 year old.  Aged for 15 years exclusively in ex-sherry casks, peated to approximately 15 parts per million, and costing of $150 a bottle, this is certainly not your “every day” whisky.

Aroma

From the first scent of the Springbank 15 year old, it is evident that this whisky is heavily sherry-influenced.  Dark chocolate, liquorice, orange zest, maple sugar, salted almonds, and a touch of peat smoke can all be detected in this incredibly complex and pronounced nose.

Taste

On the palate are notes of rich milk chocolate, tobacco, raisins, leather, and again, a hint of smoke.  The sherry influences more than just the flavor characteristic of this whisky; the mouth feel is rich and chewy.

Finish

The finish is rich in flavor, and long in length.  Notes of chocolate, raisins, and leather can all be detected in this whisky’s finish.  Although spectacular in nearly every asset, this whisky is not without it’s flaws.  The finish is slightly too gentle and, most tragically of all, there is the slightest hint of sulfur taint in the finish.  While the note of sulfur is of the outmost minimal severity, it is still a flaw that cannot be entirely over looked.

Balance and Complexity

The Springbank 15 year old’s balance and complexity is possibly the star component of this whisky.  After spending 15 years in ex-sherry barrels, this peated malt is teeming with complexity.  In Addition, all aspects of this whisky stand on equal ground with one another.  Neither the sherry, nor the peat over takes this exceptionally balanced single malt.

Conclusion

The whiskies being produced at the Springbank Distillery are direct reflections upon the care being taken in every facet of production.  The Springbank 15 year old is no exception.  With a phenomenally complex aroma, and taste, a great finish, complexity and balance, this is a whisky that –regardless of price- should remain a permanent staple in the cabinet of any malt anorak.

Victoria Whisky Festival 2012: Recap

Last weekend was the 7th annual Victoria Whisky Festival.  Companies from Scotland, Ireland, Indian, American, and even British Columbia all gathered to show case their best whiskies.

Thursday January 19th

The Thursday evening kicked off the festival with a tasting hosted by the world renown Jim Murray.  Having never been to a tasting with Jim before, I honestly had no idea what to except.  Walking into the room, the fragrances of over 1000 glasses of whisky wafted through the air like a delicate perfume.  Upon taking my seat I was both excited and terrified; 13 glasses of whisky sat in front of us.

Walking us through every whisky one-by-one, Jim had a story to go along with every one of the great whiskies he had chosen.  

Thirteen Stunning Whiskies

With out reveling too much -wouldn't want to possibly ruin the surprise of a future Jim Murray tastings-, the whiskies ranged in price from $23.75 - $350, and included whisky from five different countries.

Ok, I'll let you know my three favorites of the tasting, but no more information!

• Amrut Intermediate Sherry
• George T. Stagg
• Old Pulteney 21 Year Old

Friday January 20th

The following night was host to five grand tastings: Amrut, Balvenie, Canadian Club, Isle of Arran, and Laphroaig.  Being that I am a peat-oholic, I chose to attend the Laphroaig grand tasting hosted by master ambassador, Simon Brooking.

If you remember the first post in my "Pre-Whisky Fest Fun" series, you'll remember my predictions for the Laphroaig line up: Quarter Cask, 10 Year Old, Triple Wood, Cairdeas, and 18 Year Old.  Well I got 4/5.  The bottle I was very pleasantly surprised to see was the Laphroaig 25 year old cask strength edition!

While the Quarter Cask and the 10 year old displayed typical Laphroaig characteristics of bbq, seaweed, and of course, loads of peat, the Triple Wood, Cairdeas, and 25 year old displayed some wonderfully unique complexities that I've yet to taste from any other Laphroaig.

The Laphroaig Triple Wood is essentially the Quarter Cask finished in sherry butts.  On the nose of the Triple Wood, a sweet barley aroma along with raisins, dark chocolate, vanilla, and the slightest hint of smoke can be detected.  The taste is equally complex and delicate as the nose.  light peat, figs, raisins, and a touch of saltiness.  The finish is long and gentle with a hint of smoke.  Not very "Laphroaig" by tradition, but an exceptional dram none the less.

Laphroaig's annual Fèis Ìle bottling, Cairdeas (Gaelic for "friendship"), is a Laphroaig that is slightly more akin to the regular expressions from Laphroaig, but with some slight flavor twists.  A vatting of whiskies of various ages, this year's bottling of Cairdeas is dubbed the "Ileach Edition"  or "native of Islay" in Gaelic.  The nose is full of typical Laphroaig notes of peat, smoked bacon. bbq, smoked salmon; and a touch of vanilla and icing sugar sweetness.  The palate is full on Laphroaig: leather, shoe polish, band-aids, heavy peat smoke and a touch of banana.  The finish is medium in length with moderately intense peaty note.  This year's bottling of Cairdea does seem to be considerably younger than previous bottling, as well as being bottled at a lower ABV than previous year.  Although still an exceptional whisky, not quiet as exceptional as its predecessors.

To conclude the tasting, the Laphroaig 25 Year Old Cask Strength.  What a whisky!  Laphroaig is know for being a take no prisoners, balls to the wall, peat monster.  This whisky is anything but that.  After 25 years in the barrel the peat has subdued and notes of blackberry, figs, dark chocolate, maple sugar, pineapple and lavender take front stage on the nose.  The palate is equaliy complex with noes of tabbacco, leather, orange zest, basil, and a slightly peaty/salty characteristic.  The finish is long and gentle with notes of sweet vanilla and the slightest hint of smoke.

In addition to some exceptional whisky, Simon also brought some some items of interest including peat from Islay, and malted barley from the Laphroaig distillery.

Fresh and dried peat from the peat bogs of Islay

Saturday January 21st


Saturday kicked off with three master classes: Gordon & MacPhail, Glenfarclas, and Balvenie.  My first master class -Gordon & MacPhail- was really the wild card of the weekend. I had no idea what to expect.  I sat down to see six whiskies to welcome me: Benromach 10 Year Old, Glen Grant 1996, Mortlach 21 Year Old, Linkwood 25 Year Old, Benromach 30 Year Old, and a "suprise sample"

Absoultly ever whisky at the Gordon & MacPhail master class was a lovely whisky, in particular the Mortlach 21 Year Old and the Benromach 30 Year Old.

The Mortlach 21 Year Old had a wonderful nose of pears, bannana, apple, and butterscotch.  On the palate were notes of pears, white pepper, vanilla, and a hint of smoke.  The finish was the real star aspect of this whisky.  Notes of rich dried fruit and light peat smoke, accompanied by an ever developing finish resulted in a very memorable dram.

Winner of the best single malt (Multi cask) ages 28 - 34 in the 2012 Whisky Bible, the Benromach 30 Year Old is a knock out malt!  The nose is very complex with notes of vanilla, chocolate, raisins, cinnamon, orange zest, candy floss, and pears.  The tastes is equally enticing.  Chocolate, pecans, apples, cinnamon, and a slight hint of peat.  The Benromach 30 finishes long and rich, with notes of carmel, nutmeg, a touch of peat, and more chocolate.

You're probably wondering what the "special sample" was.  So were all of us in the master class.  After nosing and tasting for a few minutes a few of us came to the conclusion that it was a Glenlivet, approximately 25 years old.  A very good guess, but only 45 years too young.  It was the Glenlivet Generations 70 Year Old!  Distilled in 1940 and bottled in 2010, this whisky defies all logic.  After 70 years of aging in a first fill sherry butt you would expect it to tasted over sherried and over oaked.  That was certainly not the case.  While I was in a state of amazement, I was able to take brief tasting notes.  The nose was very complex with notes of nutmeg, eggnog, leather, carmel, figs, raisins, orange zest and tobacco.  The palate in so rich with dried fruit, carmel (not the nasty E150 kind), and a touch of peat.  The finish is long and rich with a big note of milk chocolate.  This was with out a doubt the best single malt I have ever taste.  Unfortunately at $22 000 a bottle it is a bit out of my price range.



My next master class was hosted by one of my favorite speyside distilleries, Glenfarclas.  Hosted by George Grant, George walked us through a tasting of the 8, 15, 17, 21, 25, Cask Strength 105, and Family Cask 1997.  My favorites from this master class were the 8 Year Old, the 15 Year Old, and the Cask Strength 105.  The 8 Year Old was very fruity.  Candied green apple, apricot, as well as some citric notes.  The finish was medium in length with lots of apple notes.  I couldn't think of a more ideal summer whisky.  The 15 Year Old was rich and sweet with notes of chocolate, toffee, banana, mocha, and a hint of salt.  The finish was rich with notes reminiscent of chocolate covered almonds.  The Cask Strength 105 was a cracker of a whisky, and one of my favorites of the weekend.  On the nose was a great complexity of vanilla, plum, walnuts and again, a hint of salt.  The taste was fruit with notes of pear and apple along with rich sherry characteristics. The finish, oh the finish!  Loooooong and rich!

The final master class of the evening was hosted by Sam Simmons, master ambassador of The Balvenie. This master class had the most unique, approach of the weekend.  Rather than just a tasting of the basic line up, Sam deconstructed the three elements that make up The Balvenie 12 Year Old Signature.  A vatting of 1st fill and 2nd fill bourbon, and 1st fill sherry.  In addition to a cask sample from each element of the 12 Year Old Signature, we all tasted the Signature itself, new makes spirit at still proof, and The Balvenie 30 Year Old.  With already two master classes worth of whisky in me all ready, I decided to bottle up all my samples from The Balvenie class im my 25ml sample bottles that I brought to the festival.  So look forward to a blog post on the deconstruction of The Balvenie 12 Year Old Signature, and proper tasting notes from The Balvenie 30 Year Old.

The best news I heard from the seminar was that, starting later in 2012, The Balvenie will be taking the no coloring, not chill filtration, 43% ABV, approach to making their whisky!

After three amazing master classes It was time for the grand tasting.  Not much to explain with this event, I walked around and tasted lots of whiskies.  So here are some photos from the evening.

Some exceptional Japanese Whiskies from Nikka

JD's new make spirit before and after charcole 

Victoria Spirit's "Craigdarroch" work in progress single Malt Whisky

A "Under the Table Treasure"

Another "Under the Table Treasure"

After tasting well over 100 whiskies on what could be the best weekend of 2012, I have come to the conclusion on my 10 Ten Whiskies of The Weekend.

• 10. Glenfarclas 40 Year Old
• 9. Glenrothes 1975
• 8. Glenfarclas 105 Cask Strength 
• 7. Springbank 18 Year Old
• 6. Laphroaig 25 Year Old Cask Strength 
• 5. Benromach 30 Year Old
• 4. Old Pulteney 21 Year Old
• 3. Tullibardine 1962 49 Year Old
• 2. George T. Stagg Bourbon
• 1. Gordan & McPhail 70 Year Old Glenlivet

Pre-Whisky Fest Fun: Day 4

Whisky Cocktails.  I could not think of two words that would make most whisky "aficionados" (AKA: Snobs) cringe more.  Even adding a cube of ice to a nice whisky is enough to raise the blood pressure of said "aficionados".  So it would come as no surprise if this following blog post gave a few people heart attacks, because this blog post is all about whisky cocktails!

Now before I begin, I do have one rules when making a cocktail with any spirit, not just whisky.  I'll never mix a spirit that I have to pay more than $80 dollars for.  To give you a good example of the ridiculous taxation on alcohol here in British Columbia, here are some very common bottles (750ml) and their prices:

• Ballantine's Finest - $25.99
• Glenfiddich 12 Year Old - $48.99
• Highland Park 12 Year Old - $66.95
• Laphroaig 10 Year Old - $84.99
• Lagavulin 16 Year Old - $124.99
• Macallan 18 - $249.99

Flower of Scotland

- 1 oz Glenfiddich 12 Year Old
- 1 oz Giffard's Ginger of the Indies
- 1 oz Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth
- 2 Dashes of Angostrua Bitters

- Add all ingredients to mixing glass
- Add ice and stir
- Strain into chilled cocktail glass
- Garnish with a flamed lemon zest

The idea behind this cocktail was to deconstruct the flavours present in Glenfiddich 12 year old (ginger, christmas spices, citrus), and highlight those particular flavours.

Blood and Sand
- 1 oz Blened Scotch
- 0.75 oz Cherry Herring
- 0.75 oz Sweet Vermouth
- 1 oz Orange Juice

- Add all ingredients to cocktail shaker
- Add ice and shake
- Double Strain into chilled cocktail glass
- Garnish with flamed orange zest

Blood and Sand

A favorite cocktail of mine, the Blood and Sand is a classic cocktail named after the equally classic 1922 movie of the same name.  

For this particular cocktail I like to use a blend with a pronounced smokiness, like Black Grouse.  I find that lightly smoky blends tend to get lost amounts all the other ingredients. 

One note about cherry herring, if you're like me and live in B.C. you probably know we can't get cherry herring here.  The best alternative is the cherry liqueur from Okanagan Spirits.

1806 Whisky & Cola
- 2 oz Bourbon
- 0.33 oz Kola Tonic
- 2 Dashes Chocolate Bitters
- 2 Dashes Fernet Branca

- At the bottom of a mixing glass muddle one large orange zest
- Add all remaining ingredients to mixing glass
- Add ice and stir
- Strain into chilled rocks glass with one large ice cube
- Garnish with flamed orange zest

1806 Whisky & Cola

An obvious twist on the Old-Fashioned, the 1806 Whisky & Cola is named after the year in which the word "Cocktail" was first defined in print.  If you are wondering what the hell kola tonic is, it is basically concerted cola syrup.  A quick google search of "Cola Syrup" will reveal various sites that carry the product.  If you are a B.C. resident, I suggest outofafricatrading.com. They are B.C. based so your product will arrive in no time. 

The Scofflaw
- 1.5 oz Rye Whisky
- 1 oz Dry Vermouth
- 0.75 oz Lemon Juice
- 0.75 oz Real Pomegranate Grenadine

- Add all ingredient to cocktail shaker
- Add ice and Shake
- Double Strain into chilled cocktail glass
- Garnish with a long thin lemon twist

Another classic prohibition era cocktail from Harry's New York Bar in Paris, The Scofflaw is a reference to the 20s term of the same name.  A "Scofflaw" was a term coined by the media to describe someone who enjoyed visiting his/her local speak-easy.

Pre-Whisky Fest Fun: Day 3

In the single malt world, alot of emphasis is put on the proof.  It is very common to hear a whisky expert say something along the lines  of, "This whisky could be greatly improved by being bottled at 43% ABV.", when reviewing a whisky bottled at 40% ABV.

So why not prove if there is any truth to this theory.  I have two near identical bottling.  Both produced by Laphroaig and bottled at 10 Years of age.  The only differences being one is bottled at 40% ABV and the other at 43%AB.

I will review both whiskies based on four attributes: aroma, taste, finish, and complexity in order to determined if a mere 3% alcohol makes any noticeable differences.  Each category will be rated out of 25 for a total score out of 100.

Laphroaig 10 Year Old 40%

Aroma: No too complex on the nose.  Typical Laphroaig notes of peat and seaweed, as well as nuances of red bell pepper, ginger, straw and a touch of sweetness.  The lack complexity and ability to develop in the glass hurts the potential for a higher score.

21/25

Taste: Beyond the peat and earthly characteristics are notes of basil, citrus peel, anise, burning rubber, BBQ, dark coffee, and a touch of sweet barley.  The taste is definitely the best feature of this whisky.  A good amount of complexity and balance of flavors gives it a very respectable score.

24/25

Finish: Unfortunately the finish is were this Laphroaig falls short.  Considering this is an Islay bomb, the finish is far too short and lacks any depth of complexity.  It's a rush of peat smoke with subtle salty background notes, and then it's gone.

20/25

Complexity:  Over all, the complexity of this Laphroaig 10 was fairly reasonable, although the absence of complexity in the nose, and finish really hold this back from being a superb whisky.

21.5/25

Total: 86.5/100



Laphroaig 10 Year Old 43%

Aroma: The peat is much more integrated and balanced on this one.  Lots of subtle notes of green bell pepper, seaweed, new band aids (yes, new band aids), black pepper and sea salt, as well as a aroma reminiscent of fine Mezcal.  More  Complexity on the nose then the predeceasing 40% Laphroaig, as well as a better balance allow for a higher score for this Islay malt.

22.5/25

Taste:  More typical Laphroaig: huge peat smoke, basil, black pepper, smoked fish, anise, dark chocolate, and a blast of fresh espresso; what a refreshing surprise.  Lots of complexity and unique characteristics result in a exceptional score in taste.

24/25

Finish: The finish is long and lingering with lots of peat smoke, sea salt, and herbaceous notes.  A predominant anise and burnt rubber lasts well into your next sip.  Very complex and an ever changing finish; possibly the best characteristic of this whisky.

24/25

Complexity:  Great complexity through out all characteristics of this malt.  A bit heavy on the peat, but what else would you expect from Laphroaig!

24/25

Total: 94.5/100


Conclusion: So did 3% ABV make a difference? Hell yes.  The Laphroaig at 43% ABV had a much broader range of flavours and complexities over the somewhat boring 40% Laphroaig.  The 40% was by no means a bad whisky, but when standing beside the likes of the 43%, it was only a shadow of a spectacular dram.  Luckily, the Laphroaig 10 Year Old at 43% is now a permanent stable in the line up of Islay Malts available in B.C. ; as well as a stable in my liquor collection.

Mmmmmm, Laphroaig

Pre-Whisky Fest Fun: Day 2

Scotch Whisky is such a huge area of the spirit world.  With dozens of laws and countless distilleries, it's not easy for the beginner to absorb all this information at once.  In hopes of helping those with little knowledge in the field of Scotch Whisky, I have compiled a beginners guide to scotch.

The Basics of Scotch Whisky

Scotch Whisky is similar to every other whisky distilled all over the world in the sense that is a grain based and oak aged spirit. What makes Scotch whisky unique is the dozens laws protecting it, and the various styles of distillation and blending that exist under the larger title of Scotch whisky.

The Basic Laws of Scotch Whisky

In order to protect the reputation and tradition of Scotch whisky, a lengthily list of legal regulations has been put in place. Of the dozens of laws, there are several key ones you should know:

•  Made solely from water, cereal grains, and yeast 
•  Distilled and aged exclusively in Scotland 
•  Aged for no less then 3 years in oak barrels 
•  The age statement on a bottle displays the youngest whisky in the bottle 
•  Is a minimum of 40% alcohol by volume 

The Subcategories of Scotch Whisky

Scotch Whisky has five subcategories: Single Malt and Blended Malt; Single Grain and Blended Grain; and lastly, Blended Scotch.

The three main subcategories of Scotch whiskies are Single Malt, blended malt, and Blended Scotch. Single Malt differs from all other subcategories of Scotch whisky in a few ways:

•  Uses 100% malted barley in the Mash Bill[1]
•  Pot Distilled 
•  Is a Product of only one distillery 

Blended Scotch does not follow such strict guidelines as single malt Scotch. Blended Scotch may be made from grains other than malted barley; unmalted barley, corn, rye, and wheat are other optional grains for those making blended scotch. Additionally the restriction of pot stills does not apply to the blenders.   Column stills may be used to distill any grain (with the exception of malted barley). Lastly, Blended Scotch always contains whisky from various distilleries across Scotland. 

Blended Malts fall somewhere in the middle of Single Malts, and Blended Whisky.  A Blended Malt still follows stick guidlines similar to that of Single Malt Scotch, but a Blended Malt may be made using single malt whisky from more than one distillery in Scotland.  The most widely available example of a blended malt is Johnnie Walker Green.


[1] Mashbill: A recipe that describes the proportions of grain used to make a particular whisky. For example, Bourbon Whiskey is typical 70% corn, with the remaining 30% being made from barley, and rye or wheat.

Tasting and Appreciating Scotch

Scotch is like any fine wine or Cognac, and should be treaded like so.  Scotch should be savored and sipped, not shot back like bad bar tequila.  Here are my basic dos and don'ts for getting the most out of your fine scotch.

• Do: Take your time to appreciate your scotch

• Do Not: Drown your scotch with soda

• Do: Try your Scotch neat (no ice, water, etc.)

• Do Not: Be Afraid to add a touch of water to open up the whisky.  But only a teaspoon at a time, or risk drowning your Scotch

• Do: Use a proper glass:  Tasting glass, GlenCairn, brandy sifter, or even a red wine glass are best suited for appreciating the aromas of your fine Scotch

• Do Not: Be a whisky Snob.  Be open minded to all varieties of Scotch: Single Malt, Blended, Single Grain, etc.

• Do: Be reasonable.  There is no way to appreciate Scotch (or any spirit of that matter) if your sole purpose when drinking is to get drunk.  Like Robert "Drink Boy" Hess says, "Drinking just to get drunk, is like having sex just to get pregnant." 

Pre-Whisky Fest Fun: Day 1

The Victoria Whisky Festival is only a five days away!  In anticipation of the best alcohol festival I have ever attended, I wanted to do daily posts leading up the event.  Included in this five day series of post will be whisky reviews, cocktails, and other helpful information related to the world of whisky.  For this first post I just wanted to give a preview of the weekend ahead for me.


Thursday - Jim Murry Tasting


Jim Murray, the most renown whisky connoisseur and reviewer, will guide the lucky 90 guests through the winners of the 2012 Whisky Bible.  If you don't have the 2012 Whisky Bible (which you should), the three top winners of the 2012 whisky awards were as followed:

• 3rd: Paker's Heritage Collection Wheated Mash Bill Bourbon Aged 10 Years
• 2nd: George T. Stagg
• 1st: Old Pulteney 21 Year Old

I have never been to a master class hosted by Jim Murray, so to say I am excited would be a vast understatement.  Asides from the three top winners, a few of the whiskies I would love to see at the master class are the Hibiki 21 year old (Japanese Single Malt), and the Glendronach  Single Cask 1992.

Friday - Laphroaig Grand Tasting


If I were to choose my top three distilleries, Laphroaig would undoubtably be a contender for first place.  That is why the Laphroaig Grand Tasting on the Friday night is my most anticipated event of the weekend.  What I expect to be tasting from Laphroaig is the Quarter Cask, 10 Year Old, Triple Wood, Cairdeas, and lastly the 18 Year Old.  I'll cross my fingers that they'll have a 25 year old Cask Strength as well.

Saturday - Master Classes / VIP Tasting


Saturday is the zenith of the Victoria Whisky Fest.  A day full of master classes, followed by the grand tasting is results in a eventful day.

Master Classes


Gordon & MacPhail 
11:15 - 12:15


I have no experience with any bottlings from Gordon & MacPhail, but with their reputation for some of the best single malts in the world, I could not pass up this master class.  Along with Gordon & MacPhail's independent bottlings from various distilleries, they also own the Benromach distillery.  Winner of the best Single Malt ages 28-34 in the 2012 Whisky Bible with their 30 year old (95.5/100), Benromach is a distillery that has been gaining alot of popularity as of recently with an increasing amount of critical acclaim.  As much as I'd love to see one of the 70 year Old bottlings from Gordon & MacPhail, I'll be a bit less demanding and hope for the Benromach 30 Year Old


Glenfarclas
1:00 - 2:00


Waking up at 4:00 to get a good place in line for tickets definitely paid off.  Glenfarclas is another of my favorite distilleries, mainly due to their great quality to price ration.  After all, a 40 year single malt for only $412 is an absolute bargain!   Family run for generations, Glenfarclas is know for producing some of the best single malts in Speyside.  From what I've heard from others who have attended Glenfarclas master classes in the past, this one could potentially be the highlight of the weekend.


The Balvenie 
4:20 - 5:20


Only a stones throw away from the Glenfiddich distillery, The Balvenie is single malt that I have little experience with.  But with a recent increase in selection from The Balvenie here in BC (including the 15 Y.O. Single Cask, 17 Y.O. Peated Cask, 21 Y.O. Port Finish, and 30 Y.O.) I saw this master class as a "try before you buy" opportunity.

V.I.P. Grand Tasting
6:00 - 7:00

After three master class and a lot of whisky a handful of attendees -including my self- will have the opportunity to sample even more whisky.  One of the advantage to paying the extra cash for the V.I.P. tasting is having the chance to actually conversant with others, because once the general public rolls in, it's too crowded and far to load to be able to do so.  Also, the occasional table will have a special dram underneath the table, if you're lucky.


In addition to the Victoria Whisky Festival, Clive's Classic Lounge will be hosting "Clive's Whisky Week".  Included are seminars from Glenrothes, Highland Park, Macallan, and Marker's Mark.  As well as seminars, nightly whisky themes based on specific distilleries (Kitlling Ridge (Forty Creek), Buffalo Trace, and Ardbeg & Glenmorangie) will lay host to flights and cocktails based around some exceptional whiskies.

This Year's Victoria Whisky Festival is sure to be a great one.  I'll be on my best best behavior in ordered to report back with plenty of pictures, reviews, tasting notes and possibly, interviews.

Classic Cocktail of The Month: Boulevardier

If you were to go into any reputable cocktail lounge, no problems would occur if you were to order a Negroni.  Every bartender knows how to make one -or at least should know- and most bartenders would even recite to you the story of the origin of the Negroni.  So the story goes in short, in 1919, Count Camilo Luigi Manfredo Maria Negroni travels to Italy where he demands the bartender of Cafe Casoni, Fosco Scarselli, to prepare his Americano with gin in lieu of club soda: thus the Negroni is born.  A close relative of the Negroni, the Boulevardier, sees only a fraction of the limelight in comparison to the Negroni.  While a recipe of the Negroni does not see print until more then a decade after its inception, the Boulevardier appears in the 1927 Barflies and Cocktails, by Harry McElhone.

Now, if you were to order a Boulevardier in most bars, chances are you would only get a confused look in exchange.  The Boulevardier is a cocktail that has only recently seen a revival.  Once again, due to Ted "Dr. Cocktail" Haigh's Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails, another prohibition cocktail now lives again.

Boulevardier
- 1.5 oz Bourbon
- 1 oz Campari
- 1 oz Sweet Vermouth


- Add all ingredients to mixing glass
- Add ice and stir
- Strain into chilled cocktail glass
- Garnish with a orange zest

Unfortunately, due to BC liquor laws, cocktails must not exceed 3 ounces of liquor (regardless of the ABV),  So we have to opt for the equal parts approach; a great cocktail non the less.




Sticking to the DNA of the Boulevardier (whisk(e)y, bitter aperitif, and fortified wine), I've utilized an Islay Single Malt, Tawny Port, and every bartender's favorite, Fernet Branca in this month's variation.   Just a warning anyone who is wanting to try this drink, this is one of those drinks that you really have to like Fernet Branca to enjoy.


Gaelic Medicine
- 1 oz Laphroaig Quarter Cask
- 1 oz Fernet Branca
- 1 oz Late Bottled Vintage Port

- Add all ingredients to mixing glass

- Add ice and stir

- Strain into chilled cocktail glass

- Garnish with a orange zest

5 Recommend Single Malts for Beginners

The world of Single Malt Scotch can be a bit of an intimidating one.  With hundreds of single malts flooding most markets of the world, it is not an easy task for a novice to decide which Scotch will be his/her first purchase.  Not only can the sheer selection of single malts be intimidating, but the flavor profile of these whiskies can also be quite over powering.  What I am about to suggest would have many whisky aficionados gripping their crystal glass in fear, scotch cocktails.  The majority of scotches are not suited for everyone's palate.  It is rare to serve a glass of scotch to someone that has little experience with the spirit and expect them to appreciate its qualities.  Below I've listed 5 scotch cocktails.  All of which are various different styles of cocktails and ascend from lightest in spirit intensity to heaviest (using my grading of Level 1-5 as explained in a previous post).

Mamie Taylor 
- 2 oz Blended Scotch
- 0.25 oz Lime Juice
- Ginger Beer

- Add scotch and lime juice into a collins glass
- Fill collins glass with cracked ice
- Top with ginger beer
- Garnish with lime wheel, mint and straw

Mamie Taylor

Smoked Sour
- 2 oz Black Grouse
- 0.75 oz Lemon Juice
- 0.5 oz Simple Syrup
- 1 Egg White
- 1 Dash angostura bitters

- Add egg white to mixing tin
- Add all additional ingredients to mixing glass
- Dry shake
- Add ice and shake
- Double strain into chilled cocktail glass

Smoked Sour

Bird Is The Word

- 0.75 oz Black Grouse Scotch

- 0.75 oz Yellow Chartreuse

- 0.75 oz St. Germain

- 0.75 oz Lemon Juice

- Add all ingredients to shaker

- Add ice and shake

- Double Strain into chilled cocktail glass

- Garnish with lemon twist

Bird is The Word

Orkney Julep
- 2 oz Highland Park 12 Year Old
- 0.25 - 0.5oz Simple Syrup (To preferred taste)
- 10 - 14 mint leaves

- Add simple syrup and 1 oz of Highland Park to julep cup along with mint
- Gently muddle mint to extract oils
- Fill julep cup half full with crushed ice and churn mixture
- Add remaining ounce of Highland Park and top with crushed ice
- Garnish with a massive mint sprig

Orkney Julep

Rob Roy
- 1.5 oz Scotch
- 0.75 oz Sweet Vermouth
- 2 Dashes Angostura Bitters

- Add all ingredients to mixing glass
- Add ice and stir
- Strain into chilled cocktail glass
- Garnish with lemon or orange zest (Depending on your choice of whisky)

I prefer my Rob Roy with Laphroaig Quarter Cask, Camparo Antica, bitters and a zest of lemon.  Try experimenting with different scotch vermouth, bitters and citrus.

Once your palate has become accustom to the taste of these cocktails, then sipping scotch neat will not be such an intimidating task.  Below I have listed my 5 recommend single malt scotches for beginners.  The list is arranged in from lightest to heaviest in intensity and complexity.

First, here is a few tips on tasting your whisky.  First off, drink it how ever the hell you please.  It's your money and your whisky.  If you like it on ice in a tumbler, then go for it.  However, many experts will tell you neat is the best way to appreciate your fine single malts, and that is true.  Think of garlic.  Out of the fridge, nearly no odor.  Room temperature, fresh cut garlic has a distinctive scent.  Now frying garlic,  the smell is enough to engulf an entire room in its intoxicating aroma.  Same goes for whisky.  On ice, you will not get the complexity from the nose that you would from if you were to drink it neat.  Warming the glass with the heat from your hand will help bring out those intoxicating aromas.

The glass you drink out of can also have a major impact on how you preserve smell.  A classic tumbler (or "rocks" glass,) with its wide opening, allows for little concentration of the odor of a whisky.  A narrow mouth wine glass or Glen Cairn is best for appreciating the nose of a whisky.

You maybe wondering, why all the fuss about how a whisky's smell?  Well with 70% of what we taste coming from what we actually smell, the perfume of a whisky can either make or break your over all experience with that particular malt.

Without any further delays, here are my 5 recommend single malts for beginners.




1. Glenfiddich 12 Year Old / Glenlivet 12 Year Old
Most people's first single malt experience is with either of the following malts: Glenlivet or Glenfiddich 12 year old.  Usually, introduced to them because of its excitability.  Both in availability and flavor profile.  Both whiskies fallow similar flavor profiles of green apple, pears oak, cinnamon, as well as a young "grassy" characteristic.  I would consider both on level ground in terms of quality as well.  Neither of the whiskies are outstanding, but rather a middle of the road malt.  Now you maybe asking, "Why is it on the list then?"  Well, to appreciate the spectacular spirits of Scotland, you much first experience the mediocre.  By this I mean, you can not serve any new comer to the scotch world a glass of Laphroaig 30 year old and expect them to appreciate its complexity and flavor.

Glenlivet 12 Year Old

2. Glenmorangie 10 Year Old
The Genmorangie 10 Year Old is a staple in any scotch lover's liquor cabinet.  If you don't own a bottle, I hope it's because you just finished your last one.

The nose is full of orange and lemon oils.  A definite presence of honeycomb and autumn fruits can be detected in this sweet and fruit forward single malt.

The taste of the Glenmorangie 10 Year Old is a mirror image of the nose.  In addition to the citrus oils and fruit, Christmas spices such as cinnamon, vanilla and allspice can be detected.

A distinct apple sauce taste lingers in this whisky's medium length finish.  Notes of rye bread, almond, and again that citrus oils last well to the very end of this superb dram.

Glenmorangie 10 Year Old

3. AnCnoc 12 Year Old
If there is one whisky that emanates fall, it is the AnCnoc 12 year old

On the nose is a harmony on green apple, pears, allspice, oak, ginger, lemon.  Rounding off these autumn notes is a subtle floral scent, reminiscent of lavender and chamomile.


The taste is again filled with fall flavors.  Apple, vanilla, caramel, cinnamon, allspice.  As well, black pepper and a hint of tropical fruit (pineapple?) complete this wonderfully balanced whisky.

The finish is medium length with a mild intensity.  The tastes, just like mother's apple crisp.  Apples. cinnamon, oats, pumpkin and in the distant finish, tobacco.

AnCnoc 12 Year Old

4. Highland Park 12 Year Old
Highland Park will be your first introduction to a peated whisky.

Peated to only 2ppm( 2 parts per million is very low when compared to Laphroiag at 35ppm) Highland park is know as the malt containing a little bit of very thing.

On the nose are layers of honey, citrus, ginger, autumn fruits (apple and apricots), banana peel, toffee, espresso and of course, a touch of peat smoke.

While the taste resembles some characteristics of the nose, leather, anises, basil, oak, raisin, cinnamon and nutmeg is also present.

The finish is medium length with a sweet, honey/citrus and smokey notes.

A staple for all whisky advocates!

Highland Park 12 Year Old

5. Glen Garioch 12 Year Old
Glen Garioch is not a single malt that gets a lot of attention outside the circle of malt fanatics.  With such a wonderful richness and complexity, this is a malt that will never leave my liquor collection.

On the nose is a bouquet of floral notes followed by a variety of baked fruits (apple, pear, apricot).  A wonderful sweet aroma, reminiscent of brown sugar, honey and dark chocolate rounds off this amazing nose.

The taste is what really blows me away with this whisky.  Your initial sip is very similar to notes found in the nose, baked fruits, sugar and slightly floral.  Upon swallowing a blast of  herbal notes, somewhere in between basil and rosemary, coats your taste buds.

My only complaint with this malt is the finish.  Far too brief for such a great dram.  The herbal note endures with a sweet note of toffee in the distant finish.

Glen Garioch

'The month of November is full of Scotch related posts.  So if you enjoyed this one, please return for various talks including malts from Islay, Campletown, and everywhere in between.

Classic Cocktail of The Month: The Lion's Tail

One of the biggest challenges with recreating old cocktail recipes is tracking down hard to find -and some times extinct- cocktail ingredients.  It was not until recently that mixologists couldn't even create an Aviation, due to the absence of creme de violette.  Most of the classic tiki drinks call for things such as falnerum, pimento dram (or more commonly referred to as "allspice dram") and many other ingredients that have become misplaced in time.  Thanks to the work of outstanding companies like Bitter Truth, we are finally seeing a resurrection of these once deceased ingredients.  Much credit must also be given to Ted "Dr. Cocktail" Haigh, author of Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails.  Without the publication of Mr. Haigh's book,  there would be nearly no demand for such obscure ingredients such as pimento dram.

With the winter months fast approaching, the mojitos and margaritas are slowly exiting center stage.  In their place, egg nog and hot toddys begin to fill the glasses of winter imbibers.  When we think winter drinks, we think of those typical holiday flavors, nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, often dusted over the top of an egg nog or brandy alexander.  Nearly all of these winter drinks follow one of two paths, either hot or creamy; there seems to be no middle ground for those not whiling to fully except the cold reality of winter.

Taking a page from Ted Haigh's Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails, I present, The Lions Tail.  The first publication of The Lion's Tail comes from Café Royal Cocktail book in 1937.

The Lion's Tail
- 2 oz Bourbon
- 0.75 oz Pimento Dram (Or less, to taste)
- 0.5 oz Lime Juice
- 1/2 Tablespoon Simple Syrup
- 2 Dashes Angostura Bitters

- Add all ingredients to cocktail shaker
- Add ice and shake
- Double strain into chilled cocktail glass
- No garnish necessary

As you can see on a side note beside pimento dram, it mentions adding less, and I highly recommend doing so.  The pimento dram can easily over power this drink.  Trying using 1/2 ounce to begin with and adding from there.  It is also a personal preference of mine to increase the amount of lime juice to 3/4 ounce.

Even with these forgotten liqueurs finally coming back on the shelves, their distribution is fairly limited.  In BC we are still without a commercial allspice dram.  So what do you do?  Make your own of course!

The recipe is very simple, the hardest part is being patient.

Home Made Pimento Dram
Makes 1.5 L of liqueur

- 2 1/4 Cups 151 Proof Rum
- 1/2 Cup Dried Allspice Berries
- 3 Cups Water
- 3 Cups Brown Sugar

- Crush allspice berries to allow for maximum surface area
- Place allspice berries and rum in a sealed mason jar for a minimum of 10 days
- Strain rum, first through a fine mesh strainer, then through a coffee fitler
- Make 1:1 simple syrup with water and brown sugar
- Mix allspice infused rum and simple syrup together
- Bottle and allow to aged for a minimum of 1 month in bottle

Now get to it!  Make that pimento dram so it will be ready in time for the holidays.  And once finished, try out this month's variation on The Lion's Tail.

The Dragon's Den
- 2 oz Blended Scotch
- 0.5 oz Pimento Dram
- 0.75 oz Lemon Juice
- 1/2 Tablespoon Honey Syrup (1:1 Honey to Water)
- 2 Dashes Highland Bitters *


- Add all ingredients to cocktail shaker
- Add ice and shake
- Double strain into chilled cocktail glass
- No garnish necessary

I don't like to brag, but I find The Dragon's tail to be a great improvement on The Lion's Tail.  The lemon plays very well with the scotch, more so then bourbon and lime.  Also, the bourbon in the Lion's Tail does struggle to keep its head above water, while the scotch cuts through and plays well with the other ingredients.  The Dragon's Tail may just be is an obvious Scottish twist on a classic, but it is one of the better original libations I have concocted.  If you don't want to spend the time making highland bitters, just use angostura, the subtle changes will be negligible.

Highland Bitters *
- 25 Grams Gentian Root
- 14 Grams Coriander Seed
- 7 Grams Orange Peel
- 7 Grams Clove
- 3.5 Grams Camomile Flower
- 3.5 Grams Cinnamon Bark
- 375ml Highland Cask Strength Single Malt

- Add ingredients to sealed mason
- Allow to infuse for one month
- Strain bitters: first through a fine mesh strainer, then through a coffee filter
- Bottle into bitters bottle


If you took the time to make The Dragon's Den -and enjoyed it- be sure to return for future blog posts during November.  I'll be doing several posts revolving around scotch, as it is getting to that time of the year in which we need a real winter warmer.

Classic Cocktail of The Month: The Last Word

This month's cocktail is a rediscovered classic.  Although it is as old as the Sidecar and Margarita, you won't find it on a drink list of any establishment with a cocktail program short of suburb.  It was first published in 1951 by Ted Saucier.  Ted credits The Last Word as a creation of Fred Fogerty of the Detroit Athletic Club.  Established in 1887 the Detroit Athletic Club is a posh hangout for the wealthy upper class. While cocktails may not be the focus of the DAC, this prohibition-era cocktail has ensured a place on the bartending map for Detroit.  The Last Word was later unearthed in 2004 by Murray Stetson, formerly of Zig Zag Cafe in Seattle.  While looking through old cocktail books in search of some under appreciated classics for the menu of Zig Zag, Murray stumbled upon The Last Word.  Since 2004 The Last Word has become the quintessential cocktail of the Evergreen state.

While one's initial thoughts conjured by the idea of gin, chartreuse, maraschino and lime may be off putting, The Last Word is really a symphony of harmony.  The equilibrium approach to four very potent ingredients in The Last Word demonstrates the ideal example of balance in a cocktail.


The Last Word
- 0.75 oz Gin
- 0.75 oz Green Chartreuse
- 0.75 oz Maraschino Liqueur
- 0.75 oz Lime Juice

- Add all ingredients to shaker
- Add ice and shake

- Double Strain into chilled cocktail glass

- No Garnish Necessary

In my variation of The Last word I demonstrate how keeping the same general formula - spirit, herbal liqueur, sweet liqueur and citric- can result in an equally pleasing cocktail.

Bird Is The Word
- 0.75 oz Black Grouse Scotch
- 0.75 oz Yellow Chartreuse
- 0.75 oz St. Germain
- 0.75 oz Lemon Juice

- Add all ingredients to shaker
- Add ice and shake
- Double Strain into chilled cocktail glass
- Garnish with lemon twist

Classic Cocktail of The Month: Painkiller

It is officially tiki season for cocktail geeks everywhere.  A topic of mixology which I am now becoming more immersed in, despite this string of terrible weather here in Victoria.  Because of a recent legal battle over a trademark between Pusser's Rum and PKNY, (formally know as Painkiller) one drink that has been getting a considerable amount of attention of as of late is the Painkiller (If you want to read more about the Legal battle check out TikiGeeki.).

The creation of the Painkiller isn't an in-depth historical journey when compared to cocktails such as the Old Fashioned or Martini but there is some debate over who created it.  According to Pusser's the drink was created by Daphane Henderson of the Soggy Dollar Bar on Jost Van Dyke Island in the British Virgin Islands.  So the story goes, Daphane's painkiller was a local favorite but she would never disclose the information regarding the exact recipe of the drink.  So Charles Tobias, Pusser's founder and owner attempted to recreate what he thought was the Painkiller.  The whole story can be read here, although it sounds more like a script then an actual historical recollection.  Beachbum Berry claims it was George and Marie Myrick of the Soggy Dollar Bar in 1971 who created the Painkiller.  Regardless of how this drink came to be, it has become a neo-classic among tiki culture and deserves to be remembered.

A fairly close comparison to the Pina Colada, the Painkiller is a simple concoction of Rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, cream of coconut and nutmeg.  One thing that does seem to vary in each recipe is the amount of rum.  You'll find anywhere from 1 oz to 4oz.  I've found that the ratio of 2:2:1:1 works best.  Also this ratio makes it easiest to adjust the proportions to accommodate for just the amount of pain you are in.  Also, don't feel constricted by strictly using only one brand of rum.  Be your own master blender and experiment with two or more different rums when making this tiki-tipple.  Sticking to Beachbum Berry's Remixed, I'll be using Mt. Gay and Cruzan, specifically Mt. Gay Extra Old and Cruzan 12 Year Old Single Barrel.  It wouldn't do justice to mix these premium rums with pineapple juice and coconut cream from a can.  So I have taken the time to prepare home made coconut cream and fresh pineapple juice.  Below you'll find instructions on how to execute these ingredients.

Painkiller
- 1 oz Mt. Gay Extra Old
- 1 oz Cruzan 12 Year Old Single Barrel
- 2 oz Fresh Pineapple Juice *
- 0.5 oz Fresh Orange Juice
- 0.5 oz Home-Made Coconut Cream **
- Nutmeg

- Add all ingredients except nutmeg to a cocktail shaker
- Add ice and shake for a quick 5 seconds ***
- Strain into a Tiki Mug or Collins glass filled with crushed ice
- Garnish with nutmeg, Pineapple, orangle, coconut or anything thing you want.  This is a tiki drink after all!

Painkiller

* Fresh Pineapple juice isn't too difficult.  Skin and core a pineapple.  Cube the pieces into 1 inch chunks. Put into food processor or blender and blend until a smoothie like consistency has been achieved.  Strain through a cheese cloth and bottle in the fridge.  Shake before every use as separation will occur.

** Coconut cream is a bit of a pain in the ass(Pre-made stuff from the store is an adequate substitute).  First Puncture two holes in the coconut's week spots (small circles at the bottom of the coconut).  Drain the coconut of all water, make sure you keep this water.  Put coconut into oven at 350 degrees  fahrenheit for about 30 minutes or until the coconut cracks.  Remove coconut from oven with oven mitts.  Wrap coconut in towel and break open with hammer.  Peel away all meat from coconut shell (one coconut will make for about 1 liter of coconut cream so use as much as you need).  Puree or finely chop coconut and place in pot with 2 cups of table cream (Half and Half) per coconut.  On medium heat bring mixture to a simmer for about 20 minutes, being carful not to over boil.  After 20 minutes remove from heat and let cool.  Once cooled strain mixture through a fine strainer removing as much liquid as possible.  Add 1 cup of coconut water (this is optional but I fell it makes a big difference in the flavor)  and equal parts of sugar to liquid.  Over low heat let all sugar dissolve.  Cool and bottle in fridge.  Shake before every use as separation will occur.

I just made these ingredients just this past weekend so I am not sure how long they will last in your fridge but best to use them up as quick as possible.  Although the coconut cream does freeze very well with no negative side effects after thawing.

*** The reason for such a short shake is because you will be serving this drink on crushed ice so you don't want it to get over diluted over time.  You also don't want to just dry shake (or dry blend like some recipes call for) because the lack of initial dilution/chilling will result in your first few sips being room temperature.  The cocktail will take time to chill on the crushed ice.  This is because chilling with ice comes from dilution.  YOU CAN NOT CHILL A COCKTAIL WITH ICE WITHOUT DILUTION, I DON'T CARE HOW BIG AND FANCY YOUR ICE IS.  Before you get pissed off about that last sentence, please read this article by Dave Arnold of The French Culinary Institute titled Cocktail Science (read part 1 & 2).

For my variation on the Painkiller I wanted to keep a lot of the basic elements the same but give it a fairly unrecognizable twist.  The rum, pineapple, citrus, coconut and spice will all be present but along with a couple other elements that you wouldn't expect to find in a traditional tiki drink.

Broad Bay
- 1.5 oz Cruzan Single Barrel
- 0.5 oz Laphraoigh Quarter Cask
- 2 oz Fresh Pineapple Juice
- 0.5 oz Coconut Cream
- 0.5 oz Grapefruit Juice
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
- Cinnamon

- Add all ingredients except cinnamon to a cocktail shaker

- Add ice and shake for a quick 5 seconds 

- Strain into a Tiki Mug or Collins glass filled with crushed ice

- Garnish with grated cinnamon, cinnamon stick and grapefruit peel

I hope you enjoyed this months edition of Classic Cocktail of The Month.  If you haven't had a Painkiller before defiantly give it a try.  It's also a great drink to introduce to non-cocktail drinkers to because of it's heavy amount of juice.  And Remember makes it with what ever rum you have around the house or feel would best suit this cocktail.  Don't let some Rum Company tell you that it must be made with their rum and their rum alone.